Sport Climbing
American Teenager Sam Watson Sets World Record in Speed Climbing
Fastest Climber in the Paris Olympics
On Tuesday, 18-year-old Sam Watson from Texas made history by becoming the fastest-ever Olympian in speed climbing. Watson set a new world record of 4.75 seconds on a temporary climbing wall in the Parisian suburbs, earning a unique sporting accolade.
I suppose 4.75, the fastest time ever run in the Olympics in a timed sport, said Watson. That’s a cool title, no one can take that away I suppose.
The Thrill of Speed Climbing
In Speed Sport Climbing, athletes scale a 15-meter wall in about five seconds, racing towards a red buzzer at the top. Lightning-fast reactions and quick muscle movements are essential, and even a small mistake can lead to elimination.
Earlier this year, Watson set the previous world record of 4.79 seconds at a World Cup event in China. Indonesia’s Veddriq Leonardo matched that time in Tuesday’s heats, but Watson went even faster in the next round.
Head-to-Head Races
Speed climbing is not just about climbing quickly but also about beating an opponent in a head-to-head race. Even a slower time can advance an athlete if they reach the buzzer before their competitor.
I want to win these races and get to the top of the podium, said Watson. I knew it was possible to set a world record on this stage, and it was a really cool life experience.
Changes in Olympic Climbing Events
Sport climbing debuted at the Tokyo Olympics, combining speed, bouldering, and lead climbing into one event. This format was controversial, as speed climbing requires different skills than bouldering and lead. Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic, one of the greatest all-around climbers, called the format a “circus.”
For the Paris Olympics, the format changed, with speed climbing now a separate medal event and lead and bouldering combined into another.
Upcoming Finals
The men’s speed finals are set for Thursday in Le Bourget, with the women’s finals on Wednesday. Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw broke her own women’s world record twice this week, with times of 6.24 and 6.06 seconds in the heats.
Watson’s Journey
Watson grew up in Southlake, Texas, constantly climbing anything he could find. Recognizing his talent, his parents took him to a local climbing gym, where he quickly progressed. In 2022, he became the youngest man to win a World Cup medal at 16 and set the American speed record the following year.
Olympic Dreams
Winning at the Pan American Games secured Watson a spot on the US team for the Paris Olympics. Now, he enters the finals as a favorite to win gold.
It’s probably one of my favorite life experiences, Watson said about competing at the Olympics. Being a member of Team USA and meeting my childhood idols is incredible. The Olympics is an amazing experience, and I’m soaking it all in.
Beyond Sport Climbing
Besides climbing, Watson enjoys playing chess and learning languages, including Indonesian. Many of the top speed climbers, like Leonardo and Rahmad Adi Mulyono, are Indonesian.
Before Watson set his record on Tuesday, Leonardo and Mulyono briefly held the Olympic record during the heats. Watson’s record-breaking climb secured his spot in the final eight, celebrated by pumping his fists on the way down.
